he didn’t mean the smoke in my hand Issy Gaetjens-Oleson 12 months ago pickpocketsin a crowded metro.Speed-ticketed or even inthe heart of it-the bleeding heart of theplace that pioneeredmy love legal- Amsterdam taxi driverspat in my face, a slurof silent canals trickled downcheeks and to the right of the road. by: Justin Kneeshaw